How Quince Saigon still reigns supreme after four years

Photo courtesy of Quince Saigon

If you recall my Saigon Dine-Out Bucketlist that I compiled in 2021 during Vietnam’s infamous lockdown, you’ll know that Quince was high up on my list.

While I’ve had the pleasure of dining in the establishment during a four-hands collaboration with now-defunct Spanish restaurant Kiba as well as enjoying Quince’s signature nori tacos within the comforts of my own home through its delivery-only concept, Staples by Quince, an in-person visit to the award-winning establishment was still very much warranted. Plus, you know what they say ‘three times a charm’ but as it turns out after my visit to Quince, it’s simply not enough.

Considering the 4-year median lifespan of a restaurant coupled with a two-year global pandemic and one of the world’s strictest lockdowns faced in Vietnam, it is truly impressive how Quince continues to maintain a stronghold in Saigon’s increasingly competitive food and dining scene. If you don’t believe me, simply ask industry friends and loyal patrons, including Saigon’s coterie of distinguished who’s who what their favourite restaurant in town is and there’s a good chance Quince Saigon tops the list. For the unconvinced, simply stand along Ky Con Street where Quince sits and witness the droves of hungry diners and businessmen flocking through its doors.

So, how did this stalwart achieve such a remarkable feat during a year when Vietnam’s F&B industry faced a slew of challenges - operations, hiring, suppliers, packaging etc. - and the highest number of restaurant closures? During a recent visit to Quince, I put on my marketing lenses and dive deep with my eyes and mouth wide open to unravel the pillars of success that underpin this culinary byword.

The food

Of course, the food is good. In fact, it’s beyond good and is a cut above the rest. As a testament to this, when I asked a fellow industry friend and Executive Chef in Vietnam for the '“best restaurant in the city”, he quickly answered Quince.

To start, we order Quince’s signature spicy salmon nori tacos, which many guests who’ve been here rave about. True to its name (and multiple Instagram photos), the nori tacos arrive thick, crispy and cradling a hunky chunk of chopped cured Tasmanian salmon, avocado mousse and shiso leaf seasoned with chilli mayo and topped with a generous dollop of ikura.

The marriage of flavours is not new. Spicy salmon avocado temuki with ikura is a crowd favourite that you can find in many places. However, the playful reinterpretation of this dish using a crispy nori taco adopted by Quince adds a much-needed crunch (and freshness from the shiso leaf) to a dish where the seaweed is often left as an afterthought or dampened from its encased ingredients.

One thing also worth mentioning about Quince is its ability to field dishes that are both familiar for the uninitated yet different enough to pique the interest of even the most discerning foodie. Nothing on the menu is intimidating yet everything is exciting and bears visible licks of char from Quince’s wood-fired oven. One such dish that is the duck foie gras and liver parfait with smoked lapsang black tea gel, nuts jam and sourdough bread. In my opinion, this menu standout is a must.

While this dish might look simple at first take, it is nothing but. Rich, indulgent and velvety smooth, a generous smear of this winning combination of earthy, nutty and smokey flavours with a fleeting subtle sweetness atop a piece of sourdough is enough to accord this dish its signature status.

In fact, I’ve had both the above-mentioned dishes via delivery during the lockdown and I must say, for a nori taco to retain its crispness and a beautifully-plated duck foie gras to not lose its presentation despite being on the road for 30 minutes (or so) is a testament to the culinary prowess and attention to detail (packaging, delivery, operations and placement) of a kitchen.

Alaska King Crab Ravioli with “Pad phong karee” sauce

For our third small plate, I still vividly remember my dining partner and fellow industry friend scanning the menu for any hint of Thai influence considering how big a part this culture plays in Chef Julien’s day-to-day life (his wife is Thai). So, we opt for the Alaska King Crab Ravioli with “Pad phong karee” sauce and pickled kolhrabi, which was decadent and moreish yet not over-the-top and well-balanced.

The interiors

Photo courtesy of Quince Saigon

The interiors are dimly-lit and moodily set with an open kitchen where you can witness the kitchen team in its best form. For me, I always try to snag myself a counter seat and highly recommend it, especially for first-timers!

As far as space, seating, lighting and music go (very important elements and contribute significantly to the atmosphere of a restaurant), Quince nails it. While it packs 60, it’s still intimate, cosy and more importantly, multi-occasional. Here’s a place that’s perfect for both dates, birthday parties and casual-formal business dinners.

Photo courtesy of Quince Saigon

Plus, when' you’re done and in need of a nightcap, you can simply pop upstairs for a delicious cocktail at Madam Kew. Let me be clear. Multi-story sister concepts are not new, especially in Vietnam, but often I find bars to be mere add-ons to restaurants.

That’s not the case here. Both Madam Kew and Quince carry a lot of clout amongst discerning foodies and drinkers as well as industry folk. Together, both concepts draw twice the number of consumers to 37 Ky Con Street. Cross-marketing at its finest in my opinion.

The people

Besides the food, one of the most impressive things about Quince is its people. Here, I reckon people are hired for their personalities, which makes them natural hospitalitiers. From the guest hostess to wait staff, chefs and bartender, I find myself easily bantering back and forth with the team the entire evening! But it’s not all fun and games at Quince, the customer service and recovery is quick and fast.

From left to right: Operations Manager Kim Chong, Head Chef Julien Perraudin, Chef Bao La (left Vietnam) and Bar Manager Vlad (Photo courtesy of Mervin Lee)

During the pandemic, Quince Saigon ran a discount of more than 50% to clear its stock after a less than 24-hour announcement of a full lockdown (no dine-in or deliveries). I immediately ordered like everyone else but sadly did not receive my order since the restaurant had completely ran out. Within the same day, I received an online voucher straight to my email to use on my next visit.

On a separate occasion, I remember Chef Julien going around the restaurant and pouring shots straight from the bottle down peoples’ throats! Of course, this was a very special occasion but nonetheless, why would you want to leave when you’re having such a good time and the team is taking such “good care of you”?

Last but not least, another unique thing about Quince is its affairs. From four-hand (and more) dinners with other chefs to seasonal Spanish food events around leek and other local ingredients, Quince has cemented itself as a destination for culinary events through its series of events and collaborations.

The brand

The branding and marketing is strong at Quince. During the lockdown, Julien launched its delivery-only concept called “Staples by Quince” that served comfort food and casual eats such as fried chicken and burgers in addition to Quinces’s signature staples such as the above-mentioned nori tacos.

When asked why he chose to create a separate brand, Chef Julien mentioned “because the dishes don’t align with Quince”. The way Julien talks about Quince is almost like it’s a person - Quince’s likes and dislikes, what it does and how it behaves and that’s how it should be. The stronger the brand, the deeper the relationship with the consumer. This is evident in Quince’s social media - the tone and language used - as well as the brand photography and menu, it all gels together.

**My restaurant reviews and recommendations are unbiased, independent and paid for by me. No freebies were received except for a cheeky dessert, which was gifted by Chef Julien. No inducement was received for this recommendation.

Address: 37bis Đ. Ký Con, Phường Nguyễn Thái Bình, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/quincesaigon/
Website:
http://quincesaigon.com/
Opening hours:
530pm - 11pm (daily)

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