Maguro Studio: A premium Japanese seafood supplier that opened its doors to the public

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May 22

In a country home to nearly 23,000 Japanese residents (as of 2020), there is no shortage of Japanese restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City. With a designated ‘Japantown’ in the city’s bustling city centre - Le Than Tonh, District 1 - one is spoilt for choice with an array of traditional concepts (omakase, ramen and izakaya) and innovative fusion ones such as Fume and Roka Fella, to choose from

On the back of a still-ongoing convergence of pandemic-related labour, financial and ingredient issues faced by restaurants coupled with an increasingly competitive and saturated category, it can be hard to stand out. However, when you’re owned by one of Vietnam’s premium Japanese food suppliers - Yamanaka Vietnam, these challenges are less daunting.

A supplier-led concept by Yamanaka Vietnam

In the past few months, Ho Chi Minh City has seen an influx of new supplier-owned and operated concepts - BEL by Building Coffee, Cocoa Project by Cacao-Trace, Glou Glou Wine Bar by Vinobeer and now, newcomer Maguro Studio by Yamanaka Vietnam, which specialises in maguro (tuna) and has been supplying fresh fish to some of the city’s most notable Japanese establishments and five-star hotels.

A similar trend is also observed in the consumer packaged goods (CPG) category where many traditionally B2B brands are reinventing their packaging and heading straight for retail supermarkets and online e-commerce platforms such as Lazada and Shopee.

During the pandemic, when restaurants, hotels and even retail supermarkets closed, many suppliers stuck with products on hand had to build direct-to-consumer channels to fuel and sustain demand. Even after the effects of the pandemic waned, this trend still continued as suppliers realized they were simply too dependent on restaurants, hotels and retail partners and of course, after months of brand-building, revenue-generating and relentless chasing up on payments - why would these cash-strapped suppliers stop now?

The good news is for us lucky diners, this means we get to dine one step closer to the source and enjoy more ‘farm-to-table’ or in this case, ‘farm-to-fish-counter’ concepts at possibly even lower prices and better quality. As explained by owner Lanh “By working directly with suppliers in Japan, evaluating the quality of tuna ourselves and then getting it here in under 12 hours, we can bring the freshest products to our diners”.

The concept and space

Sleek and sultry concrete floors, deep house beats and a more casual-esque chef’s table that sits lower than typical Omakase countertops greet you upon entrance - a far cry from its traditional counterpart. Nonetheless, Maguro Studio’s design elements lend themselves to a ‘contemporary omakase experience’ as coined by Vietnamese founders Chef Lam and Lanh who hope that by making an Omakase concept more approachable, they can introduce Maguro to more discerning diners, especially those typically accustomed to salmon.

Another signal of its ethos and dedication to freshness is the hunk of a tuna hanging precariously behind the counter which means diners sitting upfront are in for a treat. At Maguro Studio, the team puts on a live show of precision slicing and dissecting with every sight, sound and smell nostalgic of days spent in Japan’s seafood market. Thankfully, for the squeamish, there are many other options available including a generous 10-seater at the back of the restaurant below a graffiti of a tuna (of course).

To be fair, I expect nothing less from a ‘fish butchery cum Japanese contemporary omakase’ - a marriage of concepts that easily raises many eyebrows, especially from Omakase purists (like myself). But, on a Friday night, Maguro Studio is fully booked and overflowing with joie de vivre so let’s just say my doubts are put to rest.

The food

For dinner, in keeping with traditional Omakase customers, we let Chef Lanh dictate what goes on our plates. Opening with a snack, a generous dollop of bluefin tuna tartare cradled in a delicate intricately-crafted vessel topped with ikura. The omakase menu is generous and includes a sashimi and nigiri platter as well as other cooked items such as a grilled miso black cod and Hitachi wagyu beef.

True to its namesake, many dishes off the menu include a hint of bluefin tuna except for the grilled miso black cod dish, which was easily a menu standout for me. One bite of this hunk of grilled black cod enveloped in a torched miso glaze and you’ll see why. Often, I find this ubiquitous dish to be overly sweetened but Chef Lanh’s ability to cook with as much flair as he does restraint lends itself to a rendition that’s sweet yet balanced with a transcendental smoky finish.

*Tuna tartare topped with ikura (photo taken by me)*

*Saikyo miso black cod grilled 3 days with yuzu miso (photo taken by me)*

The sushi course is far from being the humble sideshow with an impressive line-up of Atlantic salmon, otoro, chutoro uni, chutoro, engawa and takutoro handroll with the chutoro uni being my favourite. Perfectly tempered with fine vinegar, each nigiri arrives with skilfully-sliced fresh fish glistening atop a hand-pressed shari. With a touch of wasabi and soya, each bite is truly impeccable.

*Hitachi wagyu beef with yuzu miso sauce (photo taken by me)*

Following the sushi course is a Hitachi wagyu beef, a type of beef derived from only Japanese grain-fed black cows over 30 months, served with a Yuzu miso sauce, grilled vegetables with a bijou crown of ikura. The rich and decadent wagyu is a flavour high itself while the yuzu miso accompaniment adds a hint of sweetness for those seeking a little contrast. For meat purists, a bite full of wagyu and ikura makes for the perfect union.

Considering the rarity of attention paid to desserts in omakase concepts, I attack the wasabi ice-cream in one final act of gluttony. A perfect end-of-the-meal palate cleanser and also a symbolism of ‘old meets new’ in this marriage between age-old traditions (wasabi) and a fresh kick (ice-cream).

At 1,380+ VND per person sans alcohol, Maguro Studio is a well-priced go-to for sushi aficionados looking to expand their palate (and experience) to one beyond the four walls of a formal traditional concept bounded by a centerstage hinoki chef’s table serving strictly sashimi and sushi. For those looking for a fuller omakase experience can opt for the 1,980+ or 2,500+ VND per person option where the 2,500+ omakase menu is a secret.

Address: 19 Đông Du , Phương Bến Nghé , Quận 1 Ho Chi Minh City
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/MAGUROStudio
Opening hours: 11am - 2pm, 6pm - 10:30pm (closed on Mondays)

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Hi, I’m Jovel Chan, a Singaporean food and drink blogger and F&B consultant📍Ho Chi Minh City.

Over the past two years, I’ve had the pleasure of dining in more than 150+ restaurants across Vietnam and judging multiple competitions. Here, I share the industry through my eyes and I hope it inspires you to discover, learn and explore Vietnam’s exciting food and drink scene.