A Food Critic's Guide to Phu Quoc (2022)
A top-of-mind beach destination for city dwellers in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, Phu Quoc is best known for its idyllic white beaches, turquoise blue waters, luxurious 5-star resorts and of course, its seafood. But, beyond street vendors, there is a new category of young and hungry tastemakers paving the way for Phu Quoc’s culinary scene and establishing innovative dining concepts and speakeasy bars. Naturally, with an influx of both Vietnamese and foreign talent arriving on the island to work for Phu Quoc’s many up-and-coming luxury hotels and resorts, the food and drink scene is seeing a shift to cater to a more diverse, educated and affluent demographic.
With borders finally reopened after a battering two years, let’s just say Phu Quoc is ready to claim its spot as a top foodie destination in Vietnam!
Beach bars and lounges to chill from day to night
I’m a big fan of Mango Bay, and for good reason. A rustic chic hideaway with a restaurant that overlooks the ocean - what more can you ask for on a vacation (and in life)? Coupled with a fresh-catch-daily seafood menu (scallops, prawns, squid, herring) and a sunkissed menu of colourful tropical cocktails (the Green Mango Daiquiri is my favourite!), it’s not hard to understand why Mango Bay is often filled with thirsty drinkers looking for a place to whet their whistles.
Another personal favourite of mine to sit back, relax and catch the sunset is Kiki Coconut Beach Resort, a quaint little beach spot with comfy hammocks for reading, resting and refreshing after a dip in the water. Because of its slightly off-the-beaten-track location on the east of the island (30 minutes) along the shores of Ham Ninh village, there are naturally fewer crowds of people, making it the perfect getaway for anyone looking for a quiet and tranquil getaway or a romantic couple’s retreat (beachfront bungalows minutes from the ocean!). There’s even an on-site bar and restaurant as well as free motorbikes for use!
For those looking for more upscale and trendy beach bars can check out Sailing Club Phu Quoc, where there’s an event going on almost every single week. From ‘Mermaid Nights’ to ‘Sail Away Saturdays’ and ‘Birthday Bashes’, for those wondering where the party is at? It’s at Sailing Club.
Giving Sailing Club a run for its money is Ocsen Beach Bar and Club, a trendy beach club dotted with bright orange bean bags often filled with hip and chic Gen-Z patrons indulging in Instagram-worthy photoshoots. Here, the music is hip and upbeat, which is to be expected seeing Ocsen often plays host to many DJ events and parties.
However, if you’re looking for a more relaxed and laidback option, check out Rory’s Beach Bar and Club, a popular expat hotspot on the island.
Seafood staples, institutions and straight-up standouts
Crab House is a must-visit when in Phu Quoc. Home to Southern-style American seafood with a local Vietnamese twist similar to Viet-cajun seafood, think generous portions of beautifully seasoned fresh crawfish and crab tossed with corn and beans served in a metal bowl and that’s what you’ll get at this long-standing well-loved dining institution. Together with its new bakery concept, the space is nestled in a classic two-story building located a mere few minutes away from Phu Quoc’s famous night market.
Crab House’s concept is simple and straightforward. All it takes is 3 easy steps - choose your seafood, sauce and spice level and that’s it. With over 20 drool-worthy combinations, a crowd favourite is the housemade crab sauce, which is a mixture of lemongrass, chilli, Cajun and garlic butter reminiscent of typical American melted butter but enhanced with Vietnamese flavours. A side of baguette bread is served with every portion, so don’t forget to get every last dip of that good stuff.
While there are many places to enjoy seafood by the sea, there is one that’s a cut above the rest - Xin Chao Seafood Restaurant. Do not be deceived by its online reputation of being a tourist trap, Xin Chao is in fact very popular amongst Vietnamese out-of-towners and often filled with locals. This is no surprise considering Xin Chao ticks all the boxes - stunning views of the sea and sunset, live seafood to choose from, friendly and efficient English-speaking staff, good value-for-money, clean and cozy interiors and of course, lip-smackingly good local seafood delights. Here, you can have your seafood prepared how you like it - steamed, fried or grilled with onions and butter or cheese (a popular choice is grilled cheese oysters).
A highly-anticipated and welcome addition to Phu Quoc’s seafood scene is Aura Seafood & Bar, a contemporary and modern seafood restaurant as well as the latest brainchild of up-and-coming F&Bpreneur Nhat Truong (founder of popular speakeasy bar Bittersweet Cocktail and smokehouse Hien Charcoal Kitchen).
During the past few weeks, the team took its time to test new dishes, roll up their sleeves and tie up any last-minute loose ends, gearing up for a roaring return of hungry tourists through its doors. Despite being the kid in town, it’s already packed with hungry guests. If you’re thinking of visiting, I strongly suggest making a reservation.
Speakeasy bars and others that let you ‘gamble’ for drinks
Yes, there are other places to enjoy a tipple that don’t involve the sun, sand or the sea. One such bar is Bittersweet - Hidden Cocktail Bar, perhaps Phu Quoc’s first (and only) speakeasy, which ironically has made it a popular go-to amongst both locals and tourists. Boasting slow sultry beats, sexy ambient lighting and sleek interiors reminiscent of a vintage Gentleman’s Club in Brooklyn, Bittersweet’s cocktail menu pays tribute to the terroir and natural ingredients unique to the island such as Phu Quoc pepper. A good whiskey sour is my poison of choice, and let’s just say, Bittersweet’s version sprinkled with Phu Quoc pepper is the drink I didn’t know I needed but now can’t live without.
Another must-visit is House No.1 cocktail bar that goes beyond what it says on its tin. From the outside, House No. 1 looks just like another bar on the island serving cheap beer and g&ts. However, when you step into the bar, you’ll be forgiven for thinking you’ve entered a casino. Famed for its casino nights where customers are invited to play for drinks against owner Anh-Hao, who can often be seen donning a suit, dealing cards and kicking back a glass of whiskey. Beyond poker, there’s also a stage and live karaoke for guests (costumes are also provided) for anyone who fancies themselves the next Justin Bieber.
When it comes to eating, Phu Quoc (the world) is your oyster
If you’re on day 3 and have had enough seafood, I highly recommend Hien Charcoal Kitchen for a juicy meat fix (don’t worry, they have many vegetarian-friendly options too). By no means a BBQ joint, Hien is the perfect blend of casual meets upscale dining and its contemporary menu, which is eclectically Western and inspired by Asian flavours, attests to it: skewers, small plates and large plates, plus desserts.
Menu standouts include Hien’s grilled green mussels with Tobiko sauce, Mazemen with Meltique beef, Onsen and bacon, Grilled Wagyu A5 Striploin and grilled eggplant. On Tuesdays, they even offer an extremely generous 50% discount off selected menu items.
Craving pizza? Look no further than Home Pizza Phu Quoc for moreish Viet-fusion pizzas and pasta. Popular signatures include the H’Mong Duck Pizza and Crab spaghetti topped with a generous serving of chunky crab morsels.
For Italian, I recommend Il Muro at Salinda Resort for a romantic evening of wine and some of Sicily’s best by chef Simone. The Italian space features handpainted murals that span its walls from end-to-end, exposed brick, sky blue ceiling and a dark wood bar that evokes a rustic yet modern feel. Be sure to ask for the restaurant’s bang-for-buck set menu.
With a limitless supply of fresh seafood at its doorstep, Phu Quoc is (unsurprisingly) home to some of the most delicious Spanish food, which you can find at Phu FOC Night Market. Here, you can get your tapas and paella fix and wash it all down with Phu FOC’s selection of Spanish libations spanning colourful cocktails, Sangria and fine imported wine. Not to mention groovy Latino vibes and tunes to keep the party going all night long.
Last but not least, if you’re a spice lover like myself, head down to Pakka Indian, helmed by Chef Liladhar for some authentic North Indian cuisine. One bite and you’ll be transported to the streets of New Delhi with Chef Liladhar’s rich and robust menu of savoury and spicy meat, seafood, and vegetarian dishes. In 2020, the restaurant was even named the winner in the category ‘Asia’s Best Luxury Specialty Cuisine’ awarded by the prestigious World Luxury Restaurant Awards.
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