Beyond Bánh Mì: A Local Restauranteur’s Guide to Hội An’s Dining Scene

Meg and David Le, co-founders (not pictured, Lan Nguyen) of Veranda restaurant in Hoi An at The Espresso Station cafe (Photo by Anna Tarazevich)

When you think of Hội An dining, you probably think of bánh mì. Anthony Bourdain made Banh Mi Phuong famous when he visited in 2011, and pre-Covid, they were selling up to 4,000 sandwiches a day! But Hội An is so much more than this delicious sandwich, and the world has noticed. With a picturesque ancient town, rural landscapes, a fantastic beach, and a focus on fresh ingredients, Hội An offers a lot for a town of 120,000.

Already a top destination, Travel & Leisure awarded Hội An “The World’s Best City” in 2019, but the timing couldn’t have been worse. Once bursting with diverse cuisine options, many establishments have closed, and with travel guides out of date, visitors now have a more difficult time knowing what to eat, drink, see and do. The good news is that this has given time and space for locals and foreigners alike to enter the food and beverage market, and for established tastemakers to develop new concepts, test new dishes, refurbish spaces, and gear up for a roaring return to a top foodie destination.

So if you’re ready to discover or rediscover the jewel of Central Viet Nam, and go beyond the bánh mì, read on for one local’s view of some of the best food and beverage options that Hội An has to offer!

Coffee cafes to keep you buzzing for days

Icy cold coffees at The Espresso Station (Source: The Espresso Station)

Hội An has no shortage of charming spots to get your caffeine fix. Robusta reigns supreme, but more cafes now offer arabica beans, including my local fave, Bonte Coffee. It’s an architectural beauty with its modern, open-air design, and I just love drinking a hot americano out of their large, mint green mugs. If you have work to do, head upstairs to enjoy a quiet workspace.

Just down the street, halfway between the beach and town is the popular Trí Long, situated at the beginning of the rice fields. It’s a large local cafe, dog-friendly, and the weekends bring coffee and tea drinkers from around the region, evident from the packed lot. It’s a classic Hoi An coffee experience not to miss.

Source: Bonte Coffee

When I want the old-town vibe, nothing beats the beans at the newly renovated The Espresso Station. This is one of the few shops where you can get a pour-over of single-origin import coffee. If you find yourself on the Eastern side of town, stop into the funky 145 Espresso Cafe for a flat white and a chat with the friendly owners and their pups.

A bakery a day keeps the six-pack away

A native New Yorker, I love a great baked good, and Hội An has no shortage of yummy carb-rich options. The lovely ladies at Lagom keep this town fat and happy with decadent cakes and pies, which can be delivered to your hotel, or enjoyed with a hot cuppa in their super cute cafe. It’s difficult to pick a favorite, but the key lime cheesecake is always my top choice.

Tangy and creamy key lime cheesecake at Lagom

If you are looking for more savory options, try Viet Nam’s best bagels at Port City Bagel & Deli, Hoi An’s premier bagel shop and deli. Located in Old Town, the flagship locations offers delicious New York-style bagels that are hand-rolled, kettle-boiled, and baked fresh daily. Order a speciality coffee along a signature bagelwich, a simple bagel and schmear, or visit the deli to takeaway a variety of spreads, salads, meats, sweets and more. Overindulged? Head upstairs for a private or semi-private mat session at Hoi An Pilates Boutique. 

The plant-based Pesto bagel at Port City Bagel & Deli

For the best sourdough loaf in town try Thom’s, and for ridiculously addictive donuts, get delivery from Butter Oven. The talented baker Mai also sells a range of treats including a delicious burnt cheesecake and my favorite, lemon-filled donuts.

Community staples and newcomers

If you have been coming to Hội An for a while, you’ll be happy to hear a few favourites are alive and kicking. The team at Dingo Deli continues to offer wallet-friendly simple Western comfort foods, and the American burger is my top choice. It’s a well-seasoned patty, melty cheddar, crispy bacon, served with a side of fries, and you can’t beat the value for the price.

There are many pizza offerings in town, but the best pizza is still at Good Morning Viet Nam. Serving Viet Nam since 1993, the owner Luca imports top-quality ingredients from Italy which is the key to my choice, the burrata, parma ham, and rocket. It’s best to eat the pie in house and fresh out of the oven, which keeps the integrity of the chewy but crunchy crust. Leave room for salted caramel gelato or tiramisu, or both if you are feeling ambitious.

Rosie’s is still quite a popular outdoor brunch spot with good coffee and smoothies, and amazing vegan pancakes. Get it “Meg’s way” and order a half stack with a side of crispy bacon and a fried egg.

Vegan pancakes are served all day at Rosie’s

Or if you want something more luxurious plus free flow, try to catch the first Saturday every month brunch at the newly opened Hoiana Resort, a little bit outside the city.

Brunch buffet at the Hoiana

Every hour is happy in Hội An

With months of rain and even more months of stifling heat, you need a place to whet your whistle. My personal favorite is Hill Station, where it’s 50% off craft beers and glasses of house wine from 2 to 6 pm every, damn, day. They recently expanded with a hard-to-find air-conditioned bar aptly named, Next Door,  all nestled into a classic Hội An building. Another good option is the G&T menu at Market Bar, on special from 4 to 6 pm daily. I personally love the fish-bowl-sized phở-infusion cocktail with soda instead of tonic.

A long happy hour at The Hill Station

A welcome addition to the libation scene is Tank, “a craft cocktail bar that specializes in unique cocktails using our own infused syrups and flavours.” They also serve wine and craft beer and is a mixed Vietnamese and foreigner crowd in an artistic space featuring original military pieces.

Plant-based foods still rule

Once full of yoga teachers and studios, Hội An still has an active vegetarian and vegan scene. Nourish Eatery is my go-to place to meet a friend for lunch and I always get the Nourish Bowl. They perfectly fry fresh falafel and pair it with quinoa, salad, and feta or tofu cheese. I also really love the Passion for Dragons smoothie, which is basically Hội An in a glass.

This is the only place in town that serves a cute mini French Press coffee paired with a square of dark chocolate. ROM Vegetarian Bistro is a fantastic option for breakfast, lunch, or dinner and is a perfect place for mushroom lovers. I’m addicted to their fresh spring rolls and always ask for an extra serving of their spicy dipping sauce.

Fresh veg-friendly spring rolls at Rom Vegetarian Bistro

On Saturdays, An Villa serves a vegan option of bánh cuốn for a twist on a classic Hanoi dish. I think this is actually a superior version and I like to add a protein boost with an egg and get both dipping sauces because two is better than one. They offer family-friendly guest rooms and you can spend the day lounging by the pool with a full belly. 

Another Hanoian that has established herself as a pioneering tastemaker is Huong of Xoai Natural Living. It’s a welcoming space and you feel like you are in her home because you literally are! She thoughtfully curates the best ingredients to create light and healthy vegan dishes that heal your body and soul. She recently reopened the yoga studio above so be sure to check out what’s on the schedule or join a session with a view at OM Factory just down the street. 

The addictive bánh cuốn chay at An Villa

Variety is the spice of life

Diversity of of landscapes is another thing that makes Hội An special. Start your day with a wander through the yellow walls of old town to find your favorite noodle dish (try Cao lầu Hai or Quán Cao lầu Bá Lễ), get your mid-day cold coconut from your beach chair at the oh-so-personable Phuong’s Beach Restaurant, and end with an eco-centric modern farm-to-table dining experience with the talented Chef Tru at MÙA in tranquil Tra Que Vegetable Village (reservations essential).

If you haven’t had enough rice field views check out Roving Chill House for a lounging, Insta-worthy sundowner, watching local life go by, jazz playing in the background. Just watch out for the sounds from the competing spot next door.

Special occasion dining at MÙA, photo by Maciej Śnieżek

Relish in the simple life

Hội An is a big, small town. Take your time to wander and wonder, and know we are a mostly cash society, Google is rarely accurate, and you better make sure you have had dinner by 9 pm. Taxis and Grabs can be difficult to find therefore your own transportation can make or break your trip. Most hotels and homestays offer free bicycles to help you burn off all those calories, or ride in eco-style on the Hội An Shuttle bus.

Hội An will continue to grow as a top culinary destination in Viet Nam and Southeast Asia, and the food scene goes way beyond the bánh mì. Make sure you don’t miss out on the opportunity to visit before the crowds, and prices, get too heavy.

Cao lầu on tiny stools with friends, photo by Anna Tarazevich

---

Interested to try authentic Vietnamese snacks and coffee delivered to you monthly from Vietnam?

Try Banyan Box today!

---

Need inspiration? Check out my Dine Out Bucketlist including my favourite bars and restaurants in Saigon.

Featured Articles

Follow me on Instagram