Review: Muội, a modern Vietnamese “wine bar” — whatever that means

Saigon’s dining scene is always ready for a glow-up, and Muội comes in quietly turning the idea of a wine bar on its head. At first glance, it looks like it’s playing by the rules. Dark wooden chairs, shelves stacked with wine bottles, an open kitchen, a cosy 25-seater with white tablecloths and apron-wearing servers. You half expect a very traditional French bistro menu.

Thankfully, that impression doesn’t last long. The moment you open the menu, it’s clear Muội isn’t interested in playing by the usual rules. Instead, it uses the wine bar format as a framework to tell a distinctly Vietnamese story that feels modern, thoughtful and refreshingly unforced. It’s familiar enough to draw you in, but different enough to make you stay, rethink what a wine bar in Saigon can be.

Source: Muội

Get to know ‘Muoi’

A collaboration between Leftovers (the team behind Bah Thai and the now-defunct Bambino) and the good folks behind Trieu Institute, Firkin & Dram (all well-loved names in Saigon), Muội has quietly taken over the first floor of Trieu Institute for a limited residency. Go soon — though don’t be surprised if it sticks around. This new kid on the block already feels very much at home.

Translated as “younger sister” in Vietnamese, the name came about when the team saw an opportunity to give Lady Trieu’s food offering its own identity, hence Muội’s temporary address, sitting neatly beneath the award winning cocktail bar. And, like all little sisters, Muội’s concept feels apt: playful, intimate, yet quietly assured rather than attention-seeking.

The Food

At its heart, Muội is a seafood and grill restaurant that thrives on contrast and doesn’t take itself too seriously. Think raw bar swagger meeting open fire drama, with European wine bar polish layered over a very real Vietnamese soul.

Source: Muội

The Squid Linguine says it all. It’s cooked properly al dente, Roman style, but the flavours lean straight into hủ tiếu mực. Crispy garlic, scallion and a hit of shrimp satay bring it firmly back home. The Chả Cá Lã Vọng inspired grilled grouper follows the same philosophy, finished with a bright salsa verde built from the very herbs that define the original dish. I’m talking dill and spring onions layered with the freshness of Vietnamese herbs like perilla, Vietnamese balm, basil, ginger, galangal and turmeric (of course).

For starters, I’d go straight for the Muội liver pâté with pickles, a cheeky nod to the Vietnamese bánh mì, served with sourdough. The prawn curry “rice,” made with orzo and bisque, is smart and comforting without trying too hard, while the Black Angus picanha glazed in a bò kho style bordelaise brings the kind of richness you actually want to linger over.

‘Canh Chua’ salad with tomato, pineapple, okra and tamarind (source: Muội)

To cut through it all, the tomato salad with pineapple, okra and tamarind does the heavy lifting. I loved this one in particular, though I’ll admit I’m biased. It channels the bright, tangy flavours of canh chua, usually a soup, reworked here as a refreshing, colourful salad that I couldn’t stop going back to.

Sweet potato mash with prawn butter (Source: Muội)

My personal favourite came unexpectedly in the form of the sweet potato mash with prawn butter, quietly listed as a side but easily a standout signature. It’s a love letter to Canh khoai mỡ, the creamy, comforting Vietnamese purple yam soup many Vietnamese grow up eating at home. Deeply nostalgic and seriously addictive, I’d happily come back just for this.

Flan with savoury fish sauce caramel (Source: Muội):

Then desserts come in swinging. Flan with savoury fish sauce caramel, yes savoury and it works, paired with whipped coconut cream, and even a Tres Leches married with cà phê sữa đá. I wanted more caffeine, but honestly that says more about my tolerance after five years in Vietnam than the dessert itself.

One thing I really appreciated is the choice to keep the menu in English, without Vietnamese dish names awkwardly added for effect. Nothing feels forced or performative. Both the menu and the food let the Vietnamese influence shine in a subtle, confident and quietly elegant way, paying homage without tipping into gimmicks or over-explanation.

Modern Vietnamese concepts often swing between two extremes. On one end, overly detached fine dining with far fetched formats. On the other, casual spots that lean a little too playful and rough around the edges. Muội neatly sidesteps both, landing in a sweet spot where flavours feel fresh yet familiar, and are elegantly executed for Vietnamese diners and anyone simply hungry and curious.

  • Opening times: Tues to Sun, 5pm to 10pm

  • Address: 10 Mac Thi Buoi, Ben Nghe Ward (District 1)

  • Pricing: VND 1 mil per person (food only), cocktails at VND 280,000++

  • Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/muoi.vn/

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