Review: Labri, Hanoi's First Oriental Neo-Bistro in the Heart of the City

Umami Squidi, a standout hit comprising chargrilled squid, assorted mushrooms and a moreish umami sauce made from prawn heads and squid egg

Opening its doors in January 2021, Labri is not only Hanoi’s newest kid on the block but also the city’s first oriental neo-bistro. Located in the heart of the city, Labri is helmed by Chef Joon Hyuk who cut his teeth in the kitchen of Michelin-starred restaurant Abysse - a French-Japanese Michelin one-star restaurant located in Minami Aoyama, Tokyo. Now, after working in Japan, Korea and Canada, Joon brings his fondness and flair for French-Asian gastronomy to Labri with wife and co-founder, Linh.

Dubbed the city’s first neo-fusion restaurant, Labri, which means ‘shelter’ in French does exactly what it says on the tin. A marriage of minimalist elegance and casual comfort, Labri is tucked away in an unassuming location on the second floor of a shophouse along Hanoi’s popular Bui Thi Xuan street. Labri’s location is private and inconspicuous, disclosing only but a deep blue neon sign on the popular street front. Nevertheless, upon entering I am immediately welcomed by Chef Joon positioned at the head of the restaurant and in front of his kitchen and army of culinary comrades. Locking eyes with Chef Joon, I think to myself ‘This is the place and I have arrived.’

Labri’s main dining space featuring an open kitchen and chef counter

Paying homage to its namesake, Labri mimics a home as you first into a ‘living room’ for some friendly banter with co-founder Linh, who introduces the concept, menu and more importantly, the wine list. Here, guests are invited to lounge on a couch and flip through one of the many culinary guidebooks and magazines left behind by foodies and founders alike. Streaming along the walls of the open and minimalistic restaurant are royal blue chairs accompanied by an ambient low light and cool concrete floors, giving rise to a sultry evening vibe.

At first glance, Labri’s menu appears deceivingly French with dishes such as foie gras, onion soup and salmon ceviche but a second look reveals clever and thoughtful technique as well as ingredients reminiscent of Asian cuisine. A testament of Chef Joon’s culinary background, Labri’s menu borrows elements from fine dining taking unsuspecting palates from a light and simple start to a decadent main and ending with a sweet finish. Excited to embark on this culinary sojourn with Chef Joon, I dive in with both hands and mouth open.

We start with a salmon ceviche served with fermented pineapple, a simple yet refreshing, tangy and sweet dish. An overall balanced dish with no ingredient overpowering another, this is the perfect starter to cleanse one’s palate and whet one’s appetite. Another noteworthy starter is Labri’s melt-in-your-mouth Umami squid, a chargrilled squid served on a mountain of assorted mushrooms in an umami jus (reduced shrimp jus made from squid egg and prawn heads) and topped with prawn crumble. Every bite is moreish and leaves me hankering for more. A standout hit and personal favourite of mine, the Umami Squid is one of Labri’s bestsellers and I can see why - it alone warrants a return visit to the establishment.

Salmon ceviche with fermented pineapple

Feasting on a modern and sophisticated rendition of traditional Korean BBQ, Chef Joon’s Galbi short rib served with a confit garlic cream sauce and su-su vegetable is easily the main culinary star of the evening. Every bite is nostalgic of my travels to Korea and albeit atypical of a fine dining restaurant to serve Galbi (usually premium cuts such as Wagyu, Tenderloin and Striploin debut instead), Chef Joon does not shy away from using obscure ingredients. Far from being the humble and underappreciated contender, Chef Joon’s Galbi, which is sourced directly from America and marinated for more than 3 days, sous vide and chargrilled after, steals the show behind this deceivingly simple dish which evokes a complex myriad of authentic flavours.

Galbi short rib served with a confit garlic cream sauce and su-su vegetable

“Far from being the humble and underappreciated contender, Chef Joon’s Galbi, which is sourced directly from America and marinated for more than 3 days, steals the show behind this deceivingly simple dish.”

In one final act of gluttony, I indulge in a chocolate ice-cream dessert served with black chocolate meringue made from charcoal and a creamy butter crumble. Coined a ‘must-try’ by Chef Joon, the ice-cream is made in-house from 75% dark chocolate and pays tribute to Linh (Chef Joon’s wife) who’s a fan of dark chocolate desserts. The dessert is an interplay of crunchy, sweet, bitter, salty as well as smooth and hard textures - a fitting finish to this multifaceted dining experience and a sweet (or whatever a 75% dark chocolate dessert can attain) end to the evening.

A promising addition to Hanoi’s emerging culinary scene, I remain hopeful for Labri and excited for the bar it has set for other independent restaurants to follow. A restaurant that does not shy away from using obscure ingredients that raise eyebrows and rarely get a look on mainstream menus. In my opinion, Chef Joon’s respect for fine dining coupled with playful tinkers on traditional dishes will serve as linchpins to Labri’s success in Hanoi’s emerging culinary scene. Fingers crossed.

Address: LABRI - Oriental Neo Bistro, 2nd floor, 113 Bui Thi Xuan Str., Hai Ba Trung Dist., Hanoi, Vietnam
Opening Hours: Monday - Sunday: 5 to 10pm
Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/Labribistro/
Price (per person): Approx. 800K - 1m (without alcohol, before tax)
Contact: 093 135 3113

Labri will be closed until the 5th of May, 2021 for sanitising and disinfecting and will reopen on Thursday, 6th May with a new Summer menu. For the latest updates to Labri’s menu and COVID-related measures, please visit Labri’s Facebook page.

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