Review: Il Muro Italiano, Salinda Resort Phu Quoc Island
After months of being locked down in Ho Chi Minh City, I cannot tell you how happy I am to be dining in a hotel-operated restaurant. And while it is not often that a hotel-operated concept impresses me over the likes of an independent restaurant, Il Muro, Salinda Resort Phu Quoc Island’s (World's Best Luxury Boutique Resort Restaurant as recognized by World Luxury Restaurant Awards 2020) Sicilian concept, is not one of them.
A transportive wink to an era past
Helmed by Executive Chef Simone from Sicily in Italy, Il Muro literally translates into ‘the Italian wall’ and pays tribute to the Villa of the Mysteries in Pompeii, famed for having one of the most important decorative mural collections in the Roman world. The Italian space features handpainted murals that span its walls from end-to-end, exposed brick, sky blue ceiling and a dark wood bar that evokes a rustic yet modern feel.
Bordered with mature milk fruit trees, the outdoor garden softens the gleaming modern floor-to-ceiling windows allowing you to enjoy a candlelit dinner. Upon stepping in, you’ll be whisked away to Italy and forgiven for thinking you’ve entered into another world.
Besides its haute Italian design and fanciful splendour, il Muro is also known for its authentically Sicilian family recipes, reminiscent of Chef Simone’s childhood days in the kitchen with his grandmother. The impeccable service is a cherry on top of an already memorable experience and makes for a promising start to the evening.
Italian cuisine with a nod to Vietnamese influence
My partner and I were invited to experience Chef Simone’s romantic three-course set menu - a small plate, main and dessert. To start, I opt for the Polpo Scottato, tenderized pan-seared octopus tentacles paired with a combination of capsicum and beetroot puree. Although from the small plates menu, the dish arrives big enough to share between two people. The distinct smokiness that wraps the tongue is transcendental and melds perfectly with the sweetness from the puree.
My greatest rave is reserved for the main course - generously-encrusted roasted lamb chops with herb-infused bread crumbs served with soft Italian potato cake, pan-fried cauliflower and roasted onion puree. Inspired by the flavors of chef Simone’s hometown gardens and the pastoral tradition of Sardinia, the chops are perfectly roasted and boast a robust flavour that pairs perfectly with the herb-infused bread crumbs, both flavour and texture. This dish easily feels like a heartwarming homemade treat from an Italian nonna or in this case, Chef Simone’s grandmother.
Finally, the highlight of the evening - Il Muro’s signature tiramisu. Before I could even order, I was already sold after hearing the restaurant manager’s gush over it at the start of the meal. Described as an ‘elegant “flowing” Italian dessert’, the tiramisu is served confined within a sheet, which is then gently removed by none other than Chef Simone himself at the table. In one swift move, the tiramisu is engulfed in a fountain of cream and whilst its presentation is slightly unconventional (yet whimsical), its classic components - layers of delicate ladyfinger cookies, espresso, mascarpone cheese, rum and cocoa powder - remain intact. Good news tiramisu aficionados! And while I prefer my tiramisu with simply a moist middle, I would gladly make an exception for this exceptional Instagram-worthy preparation.
A well-positioned restaurant perfect for singles, couples and families alike, Il Muro’s atmosphere smacks of convivial camaraderie and homely Italian warmth. Accompanied with a well-positioned price offering and on-point service, Il Muro hits the sweet spot in Phu Quoc!
*This review is sponsored by il Muro Italiano Restaurant
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