A Local Restauranteur’s Guide to Dining in Da Nang (2023)
Celebrity chef and restaurateur Gordon Ramsey loves the cuisine of Viet Nam, recently naming the country one of the world’s top food destinations and an “extraordinary melting pot of great food.”
Eating in Viet Nam is the great equalizer, and people of all types and incomes gleefully squat together on tiny plastic chairs, slurping and shovelling humble bowls of incredible food on sidewalks throughout the country.
Ha Noi and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) usually capture the foodie attention, but Da Nang, Viet Nam’s third largest city and the international centre of the Central Coast, is distinct, diverse, affordable, and gives discerning diners a back-drop of expansive beaches and luscious mountains. From BBQ to seafood, to tapioca dumplings, and hand-cut noodles, the city has its own notable dishes but also brings together tastes from the nearby provinces of Quang Nam and Hue, balancing this out with an ever-growing international food scene.
My restaurateur husband and I have lived and worked in Hoi An for four years, and whenever we want a change of scenery, we take the 40-minute drive North to the capital city, where we have our pick of food stalls, cafes, and fine-dining options.
Below, I’ve compiled my top foodie picks as well as your new favourite spots.
OODLES OF NOODLE OPTIONS
Undoubtedly the most famous dish in Da Nang is Quang noodles or mì quảng, thick turmeric rice noodles swimming in a savoury broth with a variety of protein options, all topped with crunchy onions, herbs, egg, banana flower, peanuts, and fried rice paper crackers. You can find various versions at food stalls throughout the city, but one local favourite spot is Nu ĐỒ. Chef Tuyet up levels the flavours and ambience and brings diners on a roller coaster ride of flavours and textures.
Nu Do Beef Mì Quảng (Source: Facebook)
Another great option for lunch or dinner is bánh canh cá lóc with snakehead fish, or bún chả cá, fishcake noodle soup. The Da Nang version of the latter has more turmeric, tomato, pineapple, asparagus and cabbage, and is distinctly different to its Northern counterpart. On a hot day, try a bowl at Bún chả cá Hờn, which has been dishing out this local favorite for over thirty years.
Missing your beef noodle soup? Pho Viet Kieu, as its name implies, offers foreigners a clean and comforting environment, with an extensive menu of Viet favourites and an English men. Good quality albeit a little less of an “authentic” option.
Ân Ký Mì Gia - Mì Kéo Kungfu has amazing handmade wonton noodle soups, dumplings, and steamed buns. It’s a small menu and everything is top notch. Best of all, they open super early at 6am for early morning snacking. Don’t speak Viet? No worries. They kindly offer a menu with English, pictures, and clear pricing.
Kungfu Wonton Char Siu Noodles (Source: Facebook)
Bún Chả Cá (Source: Da Nang Fantasticity)
THE SAUCE MAKES THE TOWN
Nothing makes me think of Da Nang, as much as a plate of fresh out of the fryer, turmeric-tinted bánh xèo pancakes, folder over shrimp and warm bean sprouts, and lemongrass pork nem lụi, all carefully wrapped in rice paper. But what really makes this dish sing is the generous cups of warm peanuty pork liver sauce for dipping (add extra hoisin or chili to taste). No matter the weather or time of day, for the ultimate back-alley hidden gem, visit Bánh Xèo Bà Dưỡng. The crepes are crispy, service is quick, you have much-needed handwashing stations.
Bánh Xèo Bà Dưỡng (Source: Tripadvisor)
TAPIOCA DUMPLINGS ARE VERY DA NANG
A very rustic Central experience is scooping out savory rice and/or tapioca flour dumplings steamed in rice paper and ceramic cups. Pulling from Hue, bánh bèo, bánh nậm, and bánh bột lọc are simple yet tasty. I usually skip the jelly-like meat packets offered at the table and load up on the fish sauce and chilli. A no-frills spot popular with both locals and tourists where you can try all the varieties is Bánh bèo Bà Bé. Not sure what to get? Look at the pictures and point. Better yet, get them all as this light dish will not break the bank.
Nghe An beo cake (Source: Day la Mbanh)
ROLL YOUR OWN WAY
Bánh tráng cuốn thịt heo is fresh sliced pork, rolled in rice paper, and served with heaps of herbs, sliced green mango, cucumber, lettuce, and dipped in sweet and savory fish sauce. It’s cold and refreshing and is perfect for one of Da Nang’s very hot days. Peel yourself away from the beach and enjoy a satisfying light lunch.
Have a big group, not sure what to eat, or maybe you just want a variety of dishes? Both Bếp Cuốn Đà Nẵng and Nhà hàng Madame Lân have extensive options, and Quán Huế Ngon will keep the BBQ, hot pot, and seafood lovers happy together at the same table.
Quán Huế Ngon (Source: Facebook)
VEGANS ARE COVERED
When you have had your fill of pork, Da Nang offers a variety of delicious meat-free alternatives that both plant-based people and carnivores will adore. The open air Roots is my go-to place for bowls, toasts, burgers, salads and snacks, and is a staple spot for locals and tourists. They have their own farm and use Japanese-standard processes, partners, and ingredients, with a focus on sustainability. Organic, modern, farm-to-table; Vegan never tasted so good.
Source: Roots website
Just around the bend, Kurumi is a hot spot for healthy, plant-based dishes, and is especially known for the desserts. My favorite is the “Snickers” pie. If you haven’t had your fill of dumplings, the friendly family at Chay Corner (“chay” means vegan in Viet) has you covered with savory mushroom and peanut versions, as well as a selection of other plant-based dishes.
Source: Kurumi Facebook
FAMILIAR FAVORITES
C. Tao Chinese restaurant, is the only place I have been in Central that gets close to an authentic Dim Sum experience. It’s certainly not what you will get in Saigon, but the steamed shrimp dumplings, roasted duck, and BBQ pork buns will definitely satisfy your craving for Chinese. Best of all, it’s all day, every day, and not just on the weekends.
Immediately next door is the up-and-coming Bravo Pizzeria. I attended their Parma Fest with a few friends, and I was blown away by the flavour and texture of the dough. The Viet chef and owner apparently trained in Italy, and I’m excited to see how things refine at this secret spot. With a wood-burning oven, how can you go wrong?
Source: Bravo Pizzeria Facebook
Want a bit more variety? A familiar favourite in Viet Nam is the Japan-owned Pizza Four P’s, and the Hoàng Văn Thụ location is the highlight. All branches have their unique menus, and it’s hard to pass up the BOGO White Sangria every day from 11 am to 6 pm. Deliciously dangerous.
Still craving Asian? For Korean BBQ, hit up Golden Meat House and eat all the meats, and for something off the beaten path, take a ride up to Son Tra Retreat Garden Lounge and Eatery for a more casual lunch of Viet favourites, or do dinner and enjoy international splurges like roasted rack of lamb. If you can’t decide, try a set menu, and then discuss the day over a cigar and cocktail.
HIGH TIME FOR HIGH TEA
Viet Nam is known as a coffee-drinking country, and Da Nang is no exception. Countless local shops sling the black stuff from early morning until late night. If you are looking for the local java jive, a bit more refined, look no further than Brewman Coffee Concept, where beans are serious business. The space is bright, modern, industrial, and a fun place to sip your Arabaica pour overs. Slow coffee, is good coffee.
If you are looking to stick your pinky out with the perfect afternoon tea, The Windsor Tea House is quite the experience. You have to remove your shoes at the door, but then pick up your finest party tea hat, to set the mood. Run by a man from Windsor, England and his partner, you have over one hundred teas to choose from, but I always seem to get the coconut black. Don’t worry: they let you sniff all the cans on the shelf to make sure you get your favourite. Don’t try to resist the dare-I-say-it…. Moist… hummingbird cake, or the scone with cream. Flowers everywhere, a fake fireplace, and to-die-for desserts served along a proper tea set, combine for a perfectly cosy afternoon seemingly worlds away from the streets of Da Nang.
Brewman Coffee Concept (Source: Facebook)
Tea for one or two at Windsor Tea House (Source: Facebook)
CAFES FOR DAYS
If you happen to find yourself in Da Nang during a rainy day (or week), cafes are where you want to park. One of my top picks is BreadnSalt Cafe, where you can spend hours with friends, solo reading, or catching up on laptop work. Its high ceilings, controlled temperature, and comfortable seats make this a favorite spot for a hot coffee and cheesecake.
Beautiful al fresco seating area at Six on Six
For Western comfort food, I love Six on Six. Originally started in a different location by an American and Viet couple, the new owners have expanded the space significantly, but kept the menu. It’s another great spot with both indoor and covered outdoor seating where you can sip on a variety of specialty coffees and eat breakfast all day. I never miss the filling and flavorful breakfast burrito, but the American pancakes and benedicts look equally yummy. I can sit here all day and be uber-productive with the extensive menu.
ROOFTOP SPOTS FOR SUNSET VIEWS
Photo courtesy of Gypsy Kitchen and Bar
For sunset, head up to Gypsy Kitchen and Bar, a Bohemian-chic rooftop kitchen and bar boasting stunning skyline views and an infinity pool. Giving bars in Bali a run for their money, Gypsy’s got an al fresco and indoor space fitted with eclectic furniture, canopy of lush greenery and a DJ deck where live jazz music (coupled with a complimentary pizza with every bottle of wine sold) set the mood on Tuesdays.
For food, think Mediterranean classics like Charcoal-grilled flank steak (500k) and Mezze platters (160k) as well as ‘comfort food favorites’ curated by Chef Oliver Corti of award-winning Le Comptoir and equally stand-out cocktails. Here, I recommend the ‘Dragon Memory’ (280,000 VND), which was also the winning cocktail at the 2023 Sampan Rhum Cocktail Competition, is a refreshing option for those looking for something zesty with a nod to Vietnamese ingredients.
BOOZE AND BEATS
Think you’re done splurging for the day? Think again. Speciality cocktails are just starting to become more ubiquitous in Da Nang, but The Craftsman Cocktail Bar has been serving up high-quality craft drinks since 2019, and definitely helped the local residents get through the pandemic. The space is dark, and intimate, and sometimes makes you forget you are in Central Viet Nam. They are known for their classics as well as signature drinks, and the service is top-notch. Bonus: You get a bowl of buttery and salty popcorn delivered to your table. My favourite.
If you are lucky enough, catch a show from the mega-talented family known as Hat Jazz, who croons their way through jazz standards and modern twists, and wows the sold-out crowds with their vocal prowess; truly, their musical talents rival any other found in major cities throughout the world.. Be sure to book your table in advance and show up on time to not lose your reservation; you don’t want to miss a minute of their double set.
For the speakeasy experience, Tê Bar is my go-to. I won’t tell you exactly where it is, but once you find it, the extensive bottle list, friendly and knowledgeable service, vibing music, and as one reviewer said “wicked good cocktails,” will make any night on the town even better.
A drink and a show at The Craftsman
SWEET OPTIONS FOR EVERY TOOTH
One of my favourite Da Nang experiences is to order a coconut jelly at one of the stalls along Bạch Đằng, like Dua Ben Tre 190. I like to add the custard, but if you’re brave, add the durian. It’s a popular spot for families, couples, and teens, and you have a great view of the fiver, reminding you that you are in a coastal city.
Coconut Jelly (Source: Tripadvisor)
A recent and very welcome addition to the international food scene is Wafel, the Belgian Waffle Bar. On the recommendation of a fellow foodie friend from France, I popped in after lunch and was overwhelmed by the decadence. They have two types of waffles to choose from, and an assortment of toppings and preparations, from fresh fruit to fan-freaking-tastic Marou chocolate sauce. Let’s just say I am both devastated, and happy (for my waistline), that this place is not in Hoi An.
Speaking of cacao, did you know that Da Nang has its own artisanal workshop? Fine chocolate is not just in Ho Chi Minh! Savall Chocolatier is a small operation run by a native Barcelonian, with a delicious family recipe to share with us. From chocolate-covered nuts to ice cream, and beyond, the young Chef Victor collaborates with top chefs in the region, and blends the traditions of old-world chocolate, with the flavours of Viet Nam. Don’t miss this place.
Savall Chocolate (Source: Facebook)
And if you haven’t had enough sugar for the day, The Crafty Cow is an American ice cream shop that brings back sweet memories of my childhood. I love the mint cookie, a staple flavor, and I’m always waiting to see what seasonal flavors they come up with. Sadly I missed the pumpkin spice, but I ate an entire pint of candy store floor around Halloween. Sorry not sorry. Atl least in Central, the ice cream game has been non-existent, but these guys absolutely nail the flavors, textures, and chunky-goodness of the American ice cream parlor experience.
Strawberry waffle with fresh cream and chocolate sauce at Wafel
EUROPEAN FLAVORS
Le Comptoir never disappoints. Chef Olivier and Miriam offer unpretentious French favorites and new combos, always made from the highest quality of ingredients. Service is fantastic, and you can linger inside at one of a handful of tables with a view of the open kitchen, or grab a seat at the more casual terrace. There is an extensive wine list, regular special events, a shop next door for cheese to go, and once a month Sunday Brunch with copious amounts of free-flow spirit and delicacies, well worth the price tag.
Le Comptoir (Source: Facebook)
If you want Italian fusion, check out Si Dining with Chef Alessio, formerly of El Peck. Compared to the more rustic Le Comptoir, this recent addition to the fine dining scene is a bit more inventive with their dishes and flavor combinations. The menu is divided into courses, and the appetizers and desserts were the highlight for me. The space is artistic, with a water feature wall, and a high design’s eye for lighting and materials. The Chef always comes to say hello and he has trained his staff to the highest of standards, making this a perfect special occasion restaurant.
DA NANG IS WAITING
While you might initially travel to Da Nang for the scenery and tourist attractions, or to use it as a travel hub, with a little planning, you can turn your time in town into a gastronomic journey. The Central coast culture is relaxed, the air is fresh, and the landscape bears the fruits of the sea and farms, perfect ingredients for an unpretentious dining scene. With the continual expansion of five-star global resorts, and the creation of FPT City tech park, the international reputation of Da Nang will continue to grow, and aspects of the food and drink scene will surely evolve.
But the roots are deep in Da Nang. Like the legend of Lady Buddha, who sits high on the hill and gazes over the city, forsaking the luxurious lifestyle for something more humble, is woven into the culture. Life is simple, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t rich with happiness, health, and sustainability, showing its worth through local food and drink. Those gems are there, you just need to take a beat and look. Da Nang is a lesser-known destination, but that is sure to change, and those lower-cost prices we’ve come to expect from Central might not last for long. Time for a visit. Lady Buddha is waiting.
Do not miss out on our Hoi An foodie guide by seasoned restaurateur Meg Le. Go beyond Banh Mi and discover her top local picks.
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